Sewing projects like this can be a lot of fun and save you a lot of money. Here are two different sewing methods on how to sew a lined tank top.
Reversible tank tops are very versatile. They are perfect to take with you when you travel. You get a 2 for 1 top if you use another color for the lining. You can even get 4 for 1 by using 4 different colored fabrics. . . 2 colors for the 2 fronts and 2 colors for the 2 backs. This works great under suit jackets as only the front is showing when you wear it.
Try to show first. It’s a great way to spend a lot of your stash!
The necklines can even be different in the front and back if you wish. Try sewing a V neckline in the front and a scoop neckline in the back. If you don’t have bust darts, you can wear the top back for a different look.
Try both sewing techniques to see which you like best.
Method I: sew a edging on the neckline and armholes
Directionally sew necklines and armholes to help prevent stretching.
i.e. sew 1/2″ from the edge across a single layer of
fabric from shoulder to mid front and mid back
in the neckline
Topstitching from shoulder to armpit at armholes.
Topstitch bottom edge of tank 1/4″ from front and back edge on both layers.
Join the shoulder seams
Place a front and a back with 2 right sides together.
Sew shoulder seams from neckline to armhole.
Repeat for the lining layer.
Sandwich press shoulder seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim liner shoulder seams to 1/4″
sew side seams
Sew the side seams from the bottom to the armpit on both layers.
Sandwich pressed seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim the side seams of the liner to 1/4″.
Try on to check fit.
Before you sew the two layers together, try the tank top on to see if there is room at the neckline or armholes. If so, now is the time to fix it, whether it be darts, relaxation, or other adjustments to the neckline or armhole that are too complicated to address here.
Sewing Tip: Use fusible tape on necklines and armholes to help eliminate the gap problem.
Once you get the top to fit your body, make the same adjustments to the lining.
Put the tank top and liner together
Place the 2 wrong sides of the tank top and liner together.
Pin the shoulder seams one on top of the other to hold in place at the neckline and point of the shoulder.
Line and pin underarms.
Pin center front and center back together at neckline
Pin the armholes together
Starting at the shoulder seam, sew the neckline 5/8″ to 3/4″ from the edge.
Trim the seam allowance close to the seam. This edge will be joined and will be the finished edge of the garment.
Sew the armhole seams 5/8″ to 3/4″. Trim the seam allowance close to the seam.
Now the edges of the neckline and armhole are ready to be bound.
Sewing Tip: You can try sewing the edges with a
decorative thread or find store-bought decorative trim to tie them together. You are the designer.
cut cloth binding
For a fabric trim, cut the matching or contrasting bias trim to wrap around the neckline and both armholes 4 times wider than you want the finished trim to be.
That is, if you want a 3/8″ finished binding, cut the bias to 1-1/2″ wide and the length you need.
Test the bias width on scraps of your garment and lining fabric (double layer) to make sure you have enough width for the “fabric turn”.
sew-binding
Sewing Tip: Use fusible thread on the spool of your sewing machine to sew the edging to the neckline and armholes.
Place the right side of the joint against the right side of
the tank top with the raw edges together.
At the beginning of the binding, fold back the raw end.
Place this pleat on one of the shoulder seams for the neckline. If you prefer, you can start the binding at the center of the back, however, if you plan to wear the tank inside out, it may look best to have the end of the binding on one shoulder.
Place the fold to start the seam in the armpit for the
armholes
Sew the edging as deep as you want it to be when you’re done. Example: 3/8″. Lightly stretch the edging while sewing a curve.
Overlap where you started binding and trim off the excess. The folded edge of the binding will show when the binding is finished.
Turn the bias up over the edge of the garment, fold it under and pin it in place.
Press lightly to fuse the seam and hold it in place.
Make a slip stitch on the edge of the binding so the stitches don’t show from either side or “sew in the ditch” or “sew right” on the right side with the stitches showing on the lining side.
Note: The thread of the fuse is not enough to hold the union.
permanently. You must sew it.
If you’re not going to wear the tank inside out, simply leave the raw edge of the trim on the inside and “sew in the trench.” Remove volume. As it is bias, it does not fray.
Hem Options:
Fold the two layers separately. Fold the outer layer first.
Let it rest for a while. Try the garment on and mark where the lining should be folded. Then fold the lining layer out of sight.
Note: If the garment is not reversible, fold the lining slightly shorter than the garment. If the garment is reversible, you’ll want both layers to be the same length.
Hand sew a small “rock tack” to the bottom of the side seams to hold both layers together.
Optional: You can join both layers at the bottom and join them as well.
Another option: Or, gather the 2 right sides of the bottom of the garment together and lining and leave a stitch around a 4″ opening near one side seam to turn the right side of the tank inside out.
Slipstitch or fuse the opening closed.
Method II – Create a Center Back Seam for More Options
This is another favorite sewing technique for lining.
Sleeveless. This method requires a center front or center back seam on the garment. It is the same technique that is often used for a reversible or lined vest.
If you don’t want a simple line of stitching down the center of the t-shirt, make it a pleat or crease or some other design element on the garment. Be sure to leave extra fabric for the center seam plus the pleat, pleats, etc.
How to Add for an Inverted Fold
Here’s an example of how to add a reverse fold. This
the pleat folds toward the seam line and helps hide it. You can add decorative or top stitching or trim, etc. to the fold if you wish. You are the designer. Do what suits your taste. Get ready-to-wear ideas.
For a 1″ inverted pleat center back or center front on a tank top, you would add twice the pleat (2″) plus a seam allowance (5/8″). That adds up to 2 -5/8″ total you need to add to the center front or center back fold line to make a 5/8″ seam and have a 1″ fold.
You may also like the exposed seam as the focal point of a box pleat and run a row of trims or buttons along the line of the seam. Simply fold the fold to create a box fold instead of a reverse fold.
How to sew the tank top
Directionally topstitch necklines and armholes on both layers to prevent stretching as specified in Method I.
Sew shoulder seams on both layers. Press and trim as in Method I.
DO NOT center seam. For our example, we’ll use a center back seam.
Put the 2 right sides together of the tank and the liner together
Sew armholes, trim and backstitch. Use short stitches (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8″ and backstitch.
For the neckline, starting at the back about 2″ before the
shoulder seam, sew around neckline and stop 2″ past
the other shoulder seam.
Trim the seam and topstitch. Use short stitches to sew a curve (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8″ and backstitch.
Leave the back neckline raw until after you have sewn the seam and center back pleat. It is good for now.
turn right out
Now, pull the right and left raw backs through each shoulder to turn the right side out.
Thoroughly iron the neckline and armholes sewn with topstitching up on the board.
Center stitch seam
Sew center seam at 5/8″. Sandwich press. Press seam open.
pleated brand
With the face side up, score the fold lines 2″ from each side of the seam line. Bring those lines up to the seam line and press the fold into place.
You can sew 1″ from the marked crease if you wish.
Repeat for the lining.
Back Neckline Finish
Now, finish the back neckline. Sew with short stitches, trim, topstitch, iron.
The shoulders, neckline and armholes are finished.
sew side seams
Place the right sides together for both the garment and the
covering.
Pin the underarm seams one on top of the other, matching exactly.
Start at the bottom of the garment and sew in one continuous seam to the armhole, stopping, run your sewing machine over the pin, and continue sewing the side seam of the lining.
Sandwich press seam.
Press the seam open.
Do not trim this lining seam in case you need to loosen the garment.
Turn the lining layer down inside the garment.
finish bottom
Finish the bottom as described above with split hems or. . .
Pin the two layers together leaving a slit near one side seam and flip to the right side.
Design your own tank style clothing
Change your necklines, add slits to the sides or lengthen
the tank top pattern for tunic, knee length or floor length. Just be sure to allow room for hip width plus ease.
Perfect the fit in your tank top’s seam pattern. Use it to sew blouses, dresses, beachwear, nightgowns, vests and sleeveless jackets.
Sew an entire wardrobe with different fabrics such as silk, lace, polar, leather, suede, denim, upholstery, sheers, cotton, knit, quilted, whatever you want.
Add decorative stitches, appliqués, embroidery, fabric manipulation; try all your sewing techniques, paintings, etc.
Have fun designing your own unique tank wardrobe. they are
quick and easy sewing projects.
It just makes sense!